I don't know if it will help or not but Moss has a new video posted on How
to Test Your Coil http://tinyurl.com/lcd33l
Bob
Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim Muller
Sent: Thursday, July 16, 2009 4:57 PM
To: Triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] and a bad coil?
So yesterday I (finally) got to put new ignition stuff into the GT6, points,
condensor, rotor button and dizzy cap. The new condensor didn't fit too
well. It was bigger than the previous and I had to bend the bracket a bit
so it wouldn't rub on the cam. No problem...
And today I put in new plug wires.
The car runs better, idles smoothly, revs nicely up to about 3000rpm, then
starts missing again. At that point I get better acceleration by upshifting
just to keep the rev's down. Bring the rev's down and it pulls smartly,
evenly. Bummer. Something still ain't right.
Question is, what?
The next free minute I get, probably on Saturday, I'm going to pull the
floats out of the carbs (a pair of SUs), and maybe check the fule pump
delivery, but I don't expect to find much. It feels 'lectrical, not
fuel-ical, err, I mean, fule-ical.
So one possibility is, could it be the coil? It seems to be worse after
I've been driving for some minutes, though I wouldn't swear to that under
oath. The coil is a Lucas Sport, was on there when I bought the car about 7
years ago. I suppose there might be a ballast wire somewhere but I'm not
sure. What are the usual symptoms when a coil fails?
Query: A ballast wire or ballast resistor is ony about 5-10 Ohms, right?
Just wonder what I should look for if I put a meter on it.
And is there any real advantage of one coil over another? I can't see why
there should be. That might matter if I put on a new coil.
Tanks,
Jim Muller
jimmuller@rcn.com
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