Bill,
Apparently this is a very familiar theme. I have the same issue, although
not as severe as you seem to have. I have discussed this with others who
have made this conversion and have the same or similar complaints.
I think it is from some of Uncle Jack's stuff that Tony posted online, but
the length of the spring that fits into the seal factors into the cure. I
seem to recall that the spring needs to be shortened, therefore tightened,
to 8" in overall length before putting into the seal. I am working from
memory here so do not act on this information until you verify yourself.
I am going to get to this in a couple of months so I am not paying strict
attention to the details now.
David
On Sat, Jul 4, 2009 at 1:59 AM, <bill_beecher@flash.net> wrote:
> Hello List,
>
> Well I have now put 100 miles on the new engine, it runs great, but I think
> I am actually leaking more oil than before the rebuild. I know, they are
> supposed to leak some, it a British right of passage, but I went so far as
> to grind the crank to the fit the $150. 'new-and-improved' seal from Moss
> that is supposed to resolved much of this problem. After parking the car
> from a 30min drive I see a 5" dia puddle under the engine at the rear.
>
> Is there a break-in period that I should be aware of? I intend to change
> the break-in oil at 200 miles, will this make a difference? Can I pull the
> pan to inspect the seal without pulling the engine/trans to do it? If so,
> what should I be looking for?
>
> Thanks to all in advance...
>
> Bill Beecher
> '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (On the road in 2009!)
> "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
> course, some times it is difficult to make it go"
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