Thanks for the good suggestions on my brake problems. I
had the "duh" experience while thinking about some of the
possibilities mentioned by listers late last night. I
just tried it out, and now I have good hard pedal
pressure. This one really has me kicking myself, and I'm
embarrassed to confess my stupidity. I had put the
caliper assemblies on their sides on the frame and then
tried to bleed them in that position. It never dawned on
me that I couldn't accomplish that without having the
nipple at the highest point, EVEN THOUGH I KNOW THAT!
Maybe senility is here for me. The bleeding process took
5 minutes after remounting the calipers.
I still have to deal with the car pulling, but I'm
thinking that may not be brakes after getting some advice
from a couple on the list. And then there is the PDWA
which should have closed off the front lines when I lost
pressure there, so I'm not out of the woods yet.
Thanks again,
Tim
On Sat, 30 May 2009 18:40:08 -0400
"Tim Gaines" <mtgaines@mail.presby.edu> wrote:
> Now for the problem where I haven't yet had the "duh, oh
>sh_t" moment. I need help. I put in rebuilt brake
>calipers a couple of years ago along with new flexible
>hoses. Car has since pulled to the right UNTIL the
>brakes are applied; dragging I figured. Measured rotor
>runout with dial gauge, but it wasn't excessive. Bled
>lines again with EZ-bleed but no change. Decided to take
>calipers off the wheels but leave them attached
>hydraulically for a little drive to see if the pulling
>persisted. I put blocks of wood between the pistons on
>the calipers and wired the units to the frame so they
>wouldn't fall out. But one of the blocks did fall out
>and I blew a piston all the way out while sitting in the
>garage. The piston was still sitting in the caliper, but
>brake fluid was everywhere. So I put it back and rebled
>the lines. At that point the brake pedal would go to the
>floor with no resistance. Did the bleeding again. Same
>problem. There was no leaking of fluid at any of the 4
>wheels. So I got out a new master cylinder seal kit and
>put in the seals. Everything seemed fine on the bench.
>Installed the mc, filled it (did not bench bleed it) and
> bled the brakes with my wife pushing the pedal. It took
>forever. Afterward, no pedal resistance. Rebled with
>the EZ-bleed, but still no resistance. There is no
>leaking. Adjusted REAR brakes, but no change. The
>pressure
> differential warning switch is working as it should I
>think. Despite blowing out a piston earlier, the brake
>light comes on only at startup and goes off after that.
>That means both front and back systems should be okay,
> right? I am at a total loss now and frustrated beyond
>belief. I WANTED TO BE ON THE ROAD BY NOW! At this
>point, I'd be happy to have brakes that drag again. Does
>anybody have any ideas?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Tim
> 1980 Spitfire
> 1974 TR6
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