Paul,
Testing for leaks between the two sections of the reservoir is pretty
creative. I didn't think to do that when I put mine back together, and I
bet that most people haven't either.
I do have to agree with Randall. Now is the best time to fix it.
With a slow leak between the two halves, you are OK if you have a sudden
catastrophic failure of the clutch circuit. If you have a slow leak that
takes a few days to drain the reservoir, both halves will go down
together and all of the sudden you will be without brakes.
Following your emails, I bet you are getting tired of messing around
with the brakes and clutch. Once you get all of the issues fixed it
should be a long time before you have to do anything more. :-)
Mike
Randall wrote:
>> I think it might be ok since the reservoir can (itself) does not leak.
>>
>
> It might be.
>
> But being way down low like it is, and exposed to dust and dirt from the
> road not to mention engine heat; the clutch slave on a TR is rather prone to
> start leaking. If it does, it will suck the clutch portion of the reservoir
> dry. If the partition leaks, it will also suck the brake portion dry. All
> this can happen without your touching the clutch or brake pedal.
>
> And if you are already rolling down the freeway when that happens, stopping
> to check it might be a problem.
>
> I suppose we all take risks (even driving a TR3 is a risk compared to a
> modern car); but personally I would want to fix that. Other than having to
> drain the reservoir, it should be an easy fix. There is supposed to be a
> soft (silicone perhaps) washer between the end of the circular partition and
> the bottom of the reservoir.
>
> Randall
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