Thanks Randall.
Yes I was referring to the tapered peg of the ball joint. The connection
between the VL and the peg appears tight. I can see that connection,
including the BY peg move slightly toward the car when I lift on the wheel
extension. I don not see any movement above that point at either where the
BJ connects to the upper A or at the fulcrum bushings.
Never the less, if these are the likely causes, it would appear I am back
to pulling things apart....and I didn't even get a chance to check out the
results of my steering box rebuild and silent bloc replacement.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, March 19, 2009 12:11 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Wheel/suspension movement
>> The whole unit appears to move a tad. For example, when I do this I see
>> the
>> top of the vertical link move where it connects to the ball joint.
>
> Usually, that indicates a bad ball joint.
>
>> As far as
>> I can tell the ball joint arm (I know my terminology leaves something for
>> the imagination) moves as well so I don't think it to be the ball joint.
>
> I'm sorry, Ed, I don't know whether you are referring to what the book
> calls
> the "wishbone arms" (which link the ball joint to the inner pivot on the
> frame); or the tapered peg that connects the ball joint to the vertical
> link.
>
>> When I look at the whole design of things, I'm not exactly sure what
>> should prevent this movement from happening.
>
> Let's use the Moss diagram at
> http://mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=29136
>
> The body of the ball joint (10) should be fastened solidly to the wishbone
> arms (8 & 9) (commonly called A-arms on this side of the pond), while the
> tapered peg (lower part of 10) should be fastened solidly to the vertical
> link (32). The joint should allow the peg to twist and turn (so the
> suspension can move), but NOT to move sideways. If the connections are
> tight and you can see lateral movement, the ball joint is bad and should
> be
> replaced.
>
> With enough force applied, some small movement at the rubber bushings (2)
> is
> normal. But if you can see movement with only hand pressure applied, the
> bushings are bad and should be replaced. This is by far the most common
> problem in my experience. Hopefully current supply is made of sterner
> stuff, but the ones I used to get would start to fail in less than a year.
>
> That was the primary reason I converted to Nylatron instead of rubber.
>
> Randall
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