Folks,
Lots of interesting information as it relates to cooling and the elimination
of the engine driven fan. All good information too. I'd like to add to that
with some personal experirnces. I eliminated the mechanical fan on my 4A and
saw an improvement in overall vibration that was caused by the mechanical
fan at higher speeds. I liked that.
There is a down side and it hasn't been discussed. Without an engine driven
fan there is considerable under hood heat build up at slow speed in traffic
or of course while stopped at a light or stop and go traffic conjestion. At
slow speed the engine fan keeps air moving uder the hood where an electric
fan does not if it doesn't turn on immediately. That lack of air circulation
resulted in my case to vapor locking. Remember; our carbs sit right above
the exhaust manifold and heat rises. My system uses a temperature sensor
installed in the top tank of the radiator and is set to come on at approx
185. I run a 160 thermostat (original sleeved type which came with my car
when I bought the car in 1969). It turns off at something below 175 as I
recall. So if I find myself in heavy traffic I need to remember to manually
turn the fan on or I'll have bigger problems in a very short time. There is
a thin line between vapor lock or not and once it occurs the only thing that
resolves it is getting the car moving at something over 25mph. to get under
hood air circulation again and cool the fuel.
I added one of Joe Alexander's SS Heat Shields too and that made a
significant improvement towards keeping the carb float bowls cooler.
So if you experience vapor lock in traffic and have an electric fan
conversion you may try remembering to manually turn on your fan and install
a heat shield.
JVV
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