On the TR3 I am restoring I used the 3 degree option with the TR4A upper A
arm and ball joint set-up (pic attached). Wasn't aware of any change to the
steering arm (kept the original steering box) but since I haven't driven it
yet I can't comment on performance !
I got the trunnions from the UK.
Andrew
-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall
Sent: Tuesday, October 21, 2008 11:14 PM
To: 'Cameron Joyce'; triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Trunnion Shafts
It's been some time now, but I had few complaints about the quality of
trunnions I got from Moss. As I recall, the only issues were that they were
not cross-drilled for cotter pins (use Nyloc nuts instead); and on one of
them the bottom plate leaked a little grease (until I restaked it). Oh
yeah, they were TR4 pattern, meaning they had provisions for the little
metal rings next to the seals, that the TR3 did not use.
Also, it seems very difficult to me to get an accurate assessment of the
condition of the threads inside the casting. It would be unpleasant to have
them break in operation.
So, I would (did) just buy new trunnions. YMMV and all that.
> My parts source recommends new ones ( and going
> to 3 degree vs. original 0 degree),
If you do that, don't forget that you will also need to change the upper
A-arms and ball joint. As I recall there was also a change to the steering
arm, but you could ignore that I guess.
Also don't forget the change in caster will make the steering harder.
Randall
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