Upon further review, the gap was mostly an illusion, probably only 1/32" and
readily pushed together.
The threads on the switch are about 13/32" long, and the total construction
of the steel and wood dashes is about 7/16" thick, leaving the threads 1/32"
recessed, rather than standing out 1/16" or so to allow the bezel to thread
on. The factory parts book shows a flat bezel like I have, but a "top-hat"
style that goes through the dash a bit would work. What's going on ??
> My TR4 is a late commission number, and came with the wood dash, which
> should
> be correct. The PO removed the panel lamp rheostat and turned a wooden
> plug
> to full the hole, and then covered the whole dash with wood-grain
> fabric-backed vinyl wallcovering. Really.
>
> After removing the lovely wallcovering and discovering his customization,
> I
> ordered the Lucas rheostat from TRF. It's real Lucas, and the number
> matches
> that sold for TR4 thru TR6. Problem is, the threaded portion is at least
> 1/16" too short to extend through the thickness of the dash and leave
> threads
> for the bezel, even without the rear locknut and washer. It also appears
> that
> the wood dash stands off the metal panel behind by a little over 1/16"
> too.
> Before forcing and possibly bending the metal, maybe someone else has seen
> this ? Shouldn't the wood and metal panels be flush against one another,
> which
> would probably allow this thing to fit ?
>
> Thanks!
> Karl Vacek
> '16 Model T Ford Touring
> '40 Stearman PT-17
> '46 Piper J-3 Cub
> '64 Triumph TR4
> '78 MG Midget
> '99 Mustang Cobra convertible
> etc.....
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