When I put my car back together, I used the same webbing, same top bows and
same top, but it it became extremely difficult to get that final lock in
place manuever to work. Maybe I just got weaker. I removed the little hold
downs on the back bow piece which made it very easy to install the top by
locking the side joints and then just pushing the rear arm back. Worked
fine, except on those very hot days when the top is up to protect from the
sun, it would collapse on my head as I was driving.
To cut to the chase.. I took the little holdowns off then took some velcro
(period correct velcro, that is) 3 inches wide by about 4 inches long, stuck
the 2 sides together so I had one strip with the hooks on one side and the
loops on the other, and I sewed it to the webbing where it should meet the
back bow - used one of those sewing awls I got from JCW that has string in
the handle. When the top is inposition, I just wrap the velcro around the
bow and lock in place. Easy up, easy down and drove though the CA central
valley in 100 degree heat last weekend with no collapses - so it works for
me. Just thought I would share in case it helps.
Bob
----- Original Message -----
From: "Geo Hahn" <ahwahnee18@gmail.com>
To: <TR250Driver@aol.com>
Cc: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 29, 2008 8:03 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Top Bow webbing
> Here are the instructions from my Amco top of many years past...
>
> http://www.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/top-webbing.GIF
>
> Should only be used as a general guideline as final fitting (I think)
> is more trial & error than an exact science.
>
> I usually use a length of rope thru the mid-point of the bows, looping
> it around each bow to sort of secure it, then dial in the fit.
> _______________________________________________
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