> Most authorities strongly suggest that the
> load on the tow ball should be 10% of the total trailer load (+/- 1%).
> This can be quite critical insofar as handling/steering is concerned.
>
> The other rule of thumb is that the rear of the car should only go
> down
> about an inch when the trailer is affixed. If not, the trailer CofG needs
> adjustment by some means.
I disagree, to some extent. 10% weight on the tongue is an absolute minimum
for a single axle trailer IMO, and 12% is better just because it gives you
some margin. Too little weight on the tongue tends to be a truly religious
experience, because the trailer will handle just peachy until you're above
some minimum speed (last time I had a mis-loaded trailer, it was 52 mph) and
hit a little bump of some sort or start down a small grade. Then it will
start swaying violently ... I've cleared a 4-lane Interstate that way !
BTW, if it does start to sway, do NOT try to countersteer, or jam on the
brakes. Hold the wheel steady, and brake gently. Steering towards the
shoulder seems to help too, but only with slow, gentle changes in steering.
More info at
http://www.sherline.com/lmbook.htm
including a chart for various trailer types (scroll down).
1" is quite a bit of suspension droop on a TR3 (which has a very stiff rear
suspension compared to later Triumphs), but reducing tongue weight to reduce
suspension droop is a BAD idea. Having tried both, I would rather tow with
the rear suspension sitting on the stops, than with the tongue too light.
Add some overload springs (or air bags); or move some weight from the car
into the trailer (12% is better than 100%). If you have to, switch to a
"load equalizing" hitch (which transfers tongue weight to both front and
rear tow vehicle suspension), but don't try to shift the CG of the trailer.
But 10% of 1000 pounds is only 100 pounds, so I don't think you'll have any
trouble, as long as you keep the bricks out of the boot <G>
Randall
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