> The traditional method is to have the car on jack stands and
> spin the wheel as you are tightening the brake adjuster.
BTB, this is also wrong. Both TR3 and TR4 shop manuals say to tighten the
adjuster until it's tight, then back off 1-3 clicks. You only spin the
wheel to check for resistance after backing off (which sets the clearance
between drums and shoes).
> This, however, does not take into consideration the front shoe (which
adjusting has no effect),
This statement makes me wonder if Mr. Watts has indeed ever looked inside
his brake drums. It's simply not true. If you'll look at a TR4 adjuster
assembly, it has two wedges, one for each shoe. (Item 23 in this diagram :
http://tinyurl.com/3v5f5t ) It moves both shoes equally. (Any discrepancy
in the distance required is taken up by the hydraulic cylinder moving in
it's slot.)
Another item of concern is that the VTR article makes no mention of which
cars it applies to. Stags, for example, have substantially different (and
self-adjusting) rear brakes.
Perhaps the article applies to wedges, or Glorias or something ?
Randall
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