Thanks Bob...... I went with anti-seize on both ends of the stud and
hylomar on the gasket. No leaks!
Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
<http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/> http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
_____
From: robert fabie [mailto:bobfabie@gmail.com]
Sent: Wednesday, May 21, 2008 2:35 PM
To: Bob Danielson
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net; 6-Pack
Subject: Re: [6pack] Lock-Tite or Anti-Seize?
Bob:
I would recommended using anti-seize because I believe that one or two of
the bolts used to attach the water pump are exposed to water because they
are attached through a water jacket or thermostat housing. Using Lock-Tite
in lieu of lock washers is preferred by some people, but either one should
be just fine.
Hope this helps.
Bob
On Wed, May 21, 2008 at 1:54 PM, Bob Danielson
<75TR6@tr6.danielsonfamily.org> wrote:
I just removed my leaky water pump and, of course, the nuts were frozen
solid but at least the studs backed out easily. I ended up cutting the nuts
off the stud with my Dremel. So what's the best thing to use when
re-installing the new pump? Anti-seize on both ends of the stud or Lock-Tite
on the engine side of the stud and anti-seize on the nut end? I'm leaning
toward anti-seize on both ends as it's always nice to have "options" when
removing a nut from a stud i.e. nut comes off or stud and nut back out
together.
Also.....hylomar on the water pump gasket?
Thanks
Bob
Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org <http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/>
6pack@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
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You are subscribed as bobfabie@gmail.com
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