Thanks for everyones kind advice on my electrical problem. I've almost
gone crazy tracing this thing. I have the rheostat juped out of the
circuit. I pull the wood fascia forward, everything works fine. I
screw it down, and when the left upper corner screw is all the way in,
the fuse lets go. I pull it out, move things around, and it works till
I screw it down. I finally have it all the way in and all is ok, but I
haven't put the speedometer and tach back in, as I'm out of fuses:( I
even tried changing the head light switch. I'll let you guys know if it
works when I have all the gauges back in. Obviously, something is
pinching somewhere, but I just cant see anything wrong. Thanks again,
John Mitchell
P.S. I tried those 360 degree red LED lights in the brake sockets, and
they are noticeably brighter. I tried white ones in the back up lights,
but the result was not as good as the original type bulbs and the color
is very blue. Next, I will try the amber lights, and see if they are
an improvement.
Randall wrote:
>> It lasted
>> several minutes before the fuse blew.
>>
>
> That would indicate either a slight overload (possibly a wiring mistake to
> another load) or (more likely) an intermittent short. Shorts in particular
> can be lots of fun to find; I've had this problem several times (on various
> non-TR6 cars) and it usually turned out to be a wire that was pinched in the
> bodywork somehow. On the Stag, it was the (unused) wire to the gear
> indicator pinched under the center console. On my Valiant, it was the wire
> to the key illumination pinched in a steering column shroud. If memory
> serves, there is a center console light on the later TR6 that could be the
> problem.
>
> Careful inspection is where I would start, but if that doesn't work : Remove
> all the bulbs on the circuit and temporarily jumper the fuse with an old
> headlight bulb or similar. The bulb will pass some current, but not enough
> to damage the wiring. Then use a magnetic compass to track down where the
> current goes. Or some places sell a tool that does the same thing. Likely
> much better, but I've never tried one.
>
> Yet another approach is to find a self-resetting circuit breaker (many more
> modern cars have these in the power window circuits, should be readily
> available at your FLAPS) and jumper the fuse with that. Then feel for the
> hot wire.
>
> Randall
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