Actually, it does track nice and straight, so if I'm careful with the
number of turns on each tie-rod, I can probably do it myself. I
calculate that 2 degrees in would be in spec. I've got the rear camber
at 0 degrees, thinking that it will go slightly negative with weight on
board. I put an old Michelin redline on that corner and the scrubbing
sound goes away, which I attribute to the much smaller contact patch.
Thanks for the advice. John
Sally or Dick Taylor wrote:
> John M.----Having the rear adjusters makes this job easy. You can use a
> spirit level against a stick of 2x2, against the wheel rim. (Spin the
> rim to be sure it's reasonably true. If you raise the rear of the car to
> check the rim [without the beauty trim ring], then you must roll the car
> back, then forward for approx. six feet to settle the suspension) Adjust
> the wheel camber to get the bubble level,with no one in the car. This is
> not a critical degree, as noted with the large +/- tolerances in the
> Bentley.
>
> Also, since you have the toe adjusting tool, you can do this yourself,
> if you choose. Set the front wheels to have between 1/16 1/8 inch toe
> in.
>
> Dick
>
> Actually I should have said I have excessive toe-out. I
> measure about 5 degree toe out on my Manco gauge. JM
> I need to take the TR6 in for alignment as it appears I have
> excessive toe in. The right front wheel seems to be scrubbing the
> pavement on full left turns. I have 205-70-15" tires on wire wheels and
> also have installed Goodparts rear trailing arm adjusters. What specs
> should I ask for for front toe-in and rear camber angle. The numbers in
> Bentley are for the car with 2 passengers on board and it won't be that
> way when it gets aligned. Any advice would be appreciated. John
> Mitchell 76 TR6
> ______________________________________________
> ______________________________________
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