Scott,
I had this same issue with my recently finished '67 4a (HS6's) after I spent
countless hours and significant money on rebuild parts. I replaced the stock
needle valves with the gross jet ball valves - why? Seemed like they were
less prone to sticking closed. I found that if you didn't tighten these
valves really tight, they leaked around the seal, causing fuel to overfill
the bowl under pressure and leak out around the jet assembly and drip from
the bottom of it. I have since tightened the gross jets and now have a leak
free (fuel at least...) TR.
Hope this helps.
Brian
'67 TR4a
------------------------------
Message: 8
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2008 22:20:26 -0400
From: "Scott Suhring" <suhringtr36@comcast.net>
Subject: [TR] FW: SU leaks
To: "Triumph Mail List" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <002301c89e9f$449986c0$0d463b47@Scott>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
I am posting this for a friend. He is frustrated and is looking for some
ideas. TIA
Scott Suhring
Mechanicsburg, PA
'70 TR6
'59 TR3
_____
From: John Krause [mailto:jktr250@gmail.com]
Sent: Monday, April 14, 2008 9:53 PM
To: Scott Suhring
Subject: SU leaks
Scott, can you post this for me?
SU leaks. I rebuilt my TR3 H-Series SU carburetors and they both leaked
around the jet assembly. So I replaced the cork seal, after soaking it in
oil, a second time and then used the Moss Motors O-Ring (leak-free
replacement for the small cork seal), but they still leak. I am certain
that I have them assembled correctly. They do not appear to be dripping,
but the jet assembly is always wet with fuel. Any suggestions?
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