> My local
> parts place has this piece, with the correct flared ends and
> fittings,
Be careful about those "correct" fittings. The nut that goes into the MC,
for example, can be subtly different. The threads match and the nut appears
to screw in, but if there is not a blank section of nut (no threads) at the
tip, the threaded portion will bottom in the MC and possibly prevent the
flare from being properly compressed. Attempts to fix the leak by
overtightening can break (and ruin) the MC.
> but it
> is 3/16" line. It should be ok, but, I wanted to check first
> with the list.
That was original ... works fine for me. Don't forget though, that you also
need a flexible section to allow for engine motion and vibration. The
original setup had a bracket on the frame near the slave cylinder, where the
metal pipe joined with a rubber section that ran to the slave.
> Secondly, I wish to ask, "since this 1/4" red plastic
> tube has proably
> worked fine with brake fluid for 30 years or so, I am
> wondering where it came
> from?" My local parts dealers don't have any plastic or
> rubber tubing that is
> meant to carry brake fluid.
Problem is that "brake fluid" is used in brakes, which requires tubing that
will withstand very high pressures (over 1000 psi). The safety aspect also
requires that the lines be way overrated for the actual pressure. Most
plastic or rubber won't take that much (rubber brake lines are specially
reinforced with other materials).
But clutches operate on lower pressures and are not safety-critical, so it
should be easier to find suitable plastic line for a clutch. I don't know
what the original TR6 line was made of, but I would guess that ordinary
nylon tubing would work; as long as it's rated to 400 psi and 200F or so.
Nylon is commonly used for brake fluid reservoirs I believe, so it should be
compatible chemically.
Randall
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