Dave - you are right. That'll teach me to listen to NPR. Whisky is
from from Scotland or Canada. Canada's Scottish heritage is probably
the reason.
http://www.miss-charming.com/bartender/bourbon.htm
Also, regarding capitalisation, the one writing guide to hand has it
'Scotch whisky', but 'scotch' when on its own.
Straying to Triumphs: I am working on my steering column. It started
with repairing the steering wheel, which was badly cracked at 3 and 9
o'clock. It's been one of those jobs that became a 'while I'm here, I
should....' so I've re-bushed the column, and have installed new
felts and stiffened the bracket on the back side of the firewall with
a plate. All is now solid.
I mention this because I had had believed the rubber couplings in the
steering column were in decent shape. What I could see of them looked
sound.....but when I started to undo the bolts, the upper coupling
pretty much fell apart. It was split from the backside (the backside
when the car's wheels are straight), almost all the way through. I
don't think the split would have been easy to spot even if it had
been on the 'top side' while the rubber was compressed. Goodness
knows what could have happened if that had completely failed at speed?
Just a thought for anyone that has not checked their couplings in
years /never...jack up the front of the car and loosen the four bolts
at a coupling (only loosen, no need to remove, as they are a bitc# to
get back in) examine the coupling now it is no longer squeezed by the
shaft adaptors. Move a front wheel slightly to examine all sides of
the coupling. Hopefully you won't find the deterioration I did, but
if so, you'll be glad to know.
The original job - the steering wheel - has turned out really well. I
opened up the cracks in the rim with a dremel tool, and used PC-7
epoxy to rebuild the damaged areas. I found PC-7 took twice as long
to cure as it said 'on the tin' but once cured, it is a dense, solid
material that makes a sound repair. The pack of PC-7 that is like a
double film-tube that the big-box-stores carry was plenty for my
several repairs. Patience in sanding the epoxy to shape pays off. To
refinish the rim of the wheel, I used a clear, bonding-promoting
primer, followed by a sand-able primer (2 coats), followed by an
epoxy gloss black paint (3 coats) to finish. The gloss epoxy paint
claims a highly durable finish. Time will tell, but right now, the
wheel looks terrific and as good as I could have hoped for.
Eastwood offer kits for steering wheel repair: http://
www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=2571&itemType=PRODUCT ($41, or $11
cheaper without instructions). I just went to my local store... spent
less and saved shipping.
On fitting the bolts for the rubber coupling, the holes in the
coupling are set a little wider apart than the holes in the adaptors.
You can get the first three bolts in place with ease, but then the
fourth must be almost 1/2" out of alignment. I had been struggling
with a c-clamp to compress the rubber to align the bolt with no
success. A quick interrogation of the archives told me to use a large
circlip (hose clamp). Bingo, job done.
Also, the couplings that I could find have recesses countersunk in
the bolt holes (2 on on side and 2 on the other). This may be for the
TR6. The TR4 needs no recesses, but that coupling is not available
that I could find. I resolved this by orienting the coupling to bolt
heads on the non-countersunk side, and the adaptor's foot to the
coupling's recessed side.
Brian
1962 TR4
I beg to differ. I just looked at my Seagram's (Canadian) bottle and
it says
"Whisky.
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