Two thoughts for you.
First if you are replacing your rod bolts with ARP bolts be sure to have
your rods resized at the same time this is a very important step when
ever you replace your rod bolts, new bolts distort the big ends
differently than the old bolts even if you are using new stock bolts you
should resize your rods.
Second if you are building this car to run mostly on the street you may
want to look at Goodparts triple stromberg setup instead of triple
webers. You'll get almost as much power and a lot better gas millage and
they do a better job of dealing with altitude changes on road trips.
As far as cam followers go everyone who runs a flat tappet cam is having
troubles these days read this article for some very useful information.
http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/engine/flat_tappet_cam_tech/index.html
Doug Hamilton
1960 Triumph TR3A
1963 Fiat Cabriolet
> Message: 11
> Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2007 16:08:23 +0000
> From: GregoryMChait@comcast.net
> Subject: [TR] Building a 150 hp engine
> To: triumphs@autox.team.net
> Message-ID:
>
><071320071608.23856.4697A3770004028400005D3022165514069B070E08BCB3979D01090A9DB9@comcast.net>
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> I want to build a streetable performance engine for my 1975 TR6. I'd love to
>get to 150 HP if I can get it reliably. I'm not a fan of rough idles.
> I've purchased a rebuilt 1976 short block - new Moss crankshaft, new 0.40
>Moss pistons, new Moss rings, new Moss bearings. I plan on upgrading all
>fasteners with ARP. I have purchased triple Weber DCOE carbs in anticipation
>of installing a 9.5 to 1 compression ratio cylinder head and a hotter cam.
>
> 1. What cam should I use? I'd like a nice performance street engine with a
>good idle and no flat spots.
>
> 2. I can work over either a 1969 cylinder head or a 1975 cylinder head. Which
>one is best to start with?
> 3. I understand that the different heads require different intake manifolds.
>I'd anticipated replacing valves with rimflows, valve guides with bronze, and
>valve seats with hardened seats. With the carb and cam set up, do I need to
>port the head?
>
> 4. What Weber needles and other adjustments need I make with the setup you
>suggest to avoid acceleration flat spots?
>
> 5. Are there any engine parts for TR6 engines that I should look out for? For
>example, people are having a terrible time with cam followers for MGB engines.
>Any similar parts of woe for TR6 engines?
>
> Thank you very much.
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