I want to build a streetable performance engine for my 1975 TR6. I'd love to
get to 150 HP if I can get it reliably. I'm not a fan of rough idles.
I've purchased a rebuilt 1976 short block - new Moss crankshaft, new 0.40 Moss
pistons, new Moss rings, new Moss bearings. It was only $600, and I could not
resist at that price. I plan on upgrading all fasteners with ARP. I have
purchased triple Weber DCOE carbs in anticipation of installing a 9.5 to 1
compression ratio cylinder head and a hotter cam.
1. What cam should I use? I'd like a nice performance street engine with a
good idle and no flat spots.
2. I can work over either a 1969 cylinder head or a 1975 cylinder head. Which
one is best to start with?
3. I understand that the different heads require different intake manifolds.
I'd anticipated replacing valves with rimflows, valve guides with bronze, and
valve seats with hardened seats. With the carb and cam set up, do I need to
port the head?
4. What Weber needles and other adjustments need I make with the setup you
suggest?
5. Are there any engine parts for TR6 engines that I should look out for? For
example, people are having a terrible time with cam followers for MGB engines.
Any similar parts of woe for TR6 engines?
-------------- Original message --------------
From: Peter C <peter@nosimport.com>
> John,
> Careful there. DI water "wants" to ionize itself and will
> grab available ions from places where they should be left.
>
> Peter C
> ====
> At 09:29 AM 7/13/2007, John Gillis wrote:
>
> >Thanks all for the sound advice, I have deionised water on tap (no pun
> >inteded)
> >in my lab so will bring it home in 2 litres at a time on the bike.
> >John
> _______________________________________________
> gregorymchait@comcast.net
>
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