> It was evidently a gm-delco with "batt" "gnd" posts and "R" and "F"
> (left-right) blade connectors in a recess meant for a dual
> socket doohickey.
January, I don't know what you have there, but it doesn't sound like the
usual 10/12 Si Delco alternator. Delco makes alternators in many different
configurations; so it's really not safe to assume that because it has two
terminals, it matches with terminals 1 & 2 on the 10/12 Si.
> The real symptom was not so much the voltage variation, but
> also I have a
> Crane XR-700 in the loop, and on accelerating from anywhere
> below 2500 rpm's
> causes missing and bucking.
That sounds like some other problem, not the alternator. The XR700 should
still work just fine with the alternator not working at all; or with it
putting out enough voltage to cook the battery. Given your other comments
about ammeter behavior, I'd guess bad ground(s).
> but the voltage seems way high.
>From your description, I agree. In fact, I'd call that dangerously high.
You are literally risking an explosion from the battery; as that much juice
will cause it to generate both hydrogen and oxygen in an explosive mixture.
> Just checking -- the "R" is terminal "1" and "F" is "2" - right??
Again, I don't *know*; but I suspect what you have there is an externally
regulated alternator, designed to be controlled by an ECU. I'm guessing "R"
is the reference tachometer output to the ECU; and "F" is the regulator
input from the ECU.
> So - any thoughts ??
Get a voltmeter ! A cheap digital multimeter will do fine, and can be had
for less than $10 at Harbor Freight. IMO it's an absolute requirement for
LBC ownership. Here's one that is on sale now for $3 !
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=90899
Then check the charging system voltage *before* you drive the car again. If
you measure anything over 14.4 at the battery, shut it down and fix the
problem.
I'm not kidding about the explosion ... BTDT (tho not on a LBC).
Randall
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