> I have a '74 TR6 and it has the charcoal canister and
> anti-run valve. I
> understand that new charcoal filters are hard to come by.
Generally all they need is to have the screen and filter (if present) in the
bottom cleaned periodically. On the earlier ones you just unscrew the
bottom half from the top; but I understand later ones have a sonic weld you
have to break (and glue back). Replacement filters are available from any
auto parts store : just a pad of fiberglass that you can cut to fit your
canister.
> Does the old
> filter ever become a hindrance to the motor?
If the screen/filter gets clogged completely, it can act just like the
anti-runon valve and kill the motor at idle. Partially clogged can upset
the idle mixture too (but has to be pretty bad to make a difference).
> Is it possible
> to do away with
> one or both (charcoal filter and anti-run valve) and still have motor
> (especially carbs) function properly?
Depends on your definition of "properly". The anti-runon valve is there to
prevent occasional "dieseling", where the engine wants to keep running when
you turn the key off. Without it, you can just let the clutch out with the
gearbox in gear and the brakes firmly applied to kill the motor ... which is
my habit anyway. If you also disable the vacuum retard and turn the idle
rpm down without it; your motor will rarely if ever want to run-on anyway.
(Note that this means the ignition timing should be set to the 'static'
value given in the book, which ISTR is 10 or 12 BTDC.)
The charcoal canister is only to reduce the amount of fuel vapor that
escapes unburned; it has no other effect on how the engine runs.
Of course tampering with emissions control devices is a violation of Federal
law, and state law in some states. But since the police don't go around
looking under your hood, it's very unlikely you'll be caught, unless your
state has an emissions inspection program that applies to a 74 TR6.
Randall
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