> My problem is how to separate the two without destroying the
> trailing arm or
> the bearing housing,
Sounds like a perfect application for a left-handed drill bit. I picked up
a set of 4 at HF for $6 last week, but haven't had reason to try them yet.
Spend some time finding the exact center of the hole, and put a big dimple
in it with a center punch. Then drill first a pilot hole and then just
smaller than the inside diameter of the threads; being careful to stay
on-center and in-line with the bolt. Most likely, the bolt will back out on
it's own while you're drilling the pilot hole. Wouldn't hurt to pre-heat
the assembly with a propane or Mapp gas torch, to help the process along.
> On a related note, I have noticed that the pinion flange seal is
> leaking; I assume that I am using the proper name. The front
> seal of the
> differential where the prop shaft connects to the differential. How
> difficult is this to change?
I've not done a TR6, but it should be similar to earlier TRs. Mark the
location of the big nut that holds the flange on, relative to the shaft, so
you can put it back in the same position. You may need to make up a lever
to fit across two of the bolts to hold the flange stationary while you turn
the nut ... Home Depot sells some flat rebar for cheap that would work well.
Drill it to match 2 of the flange holes then bolt it to the flange. Or just
use a big pipe wrench on the outside of the flange (but be sure to clean up
any damage to the face afterwards).
Once the flange is out of the way, pry out the old seal. There's a tool
sold for this, looks kind of like a "T" with hardened hooks for the
crossbar. But usually you can get away with a big screwdriver (if you don't
care if you ruin it for turning screws).
Tap the new seal into place with a soft-faced hammer (so it doesn't bung up
the shaft if you hit it by accident).
Inspect the sealing surface of the flange. If there are any marks left by
the old seal, rub them out with crocus cloth. If you can't rub them out in
a reasonable length of time, consider installing a Speedi-Sleeve (or
sourcing another flange). Lube the sealing surfaces liberally before
installing.
> The only thing I can come up
> with is to pray that I can tease the broken bolt out with an
> EZ out
Perhaps I'm overly clumsy, but I have _never_ had any luck using an EZout on
a broken bolt. And given how much worse the problem is once I've broken off
a hardened EZout in the center (not to mention expanding the bolt so it's
locked even harder into the hole); I no longer bother trying.
Randall
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