> I have owned my 59 TR3A since 1963. I have a huge collection of various
> choke cables which I have replaced. I think its been an awfully long
> time sionce
> I've had a choke cable which will stay OUT when I pull it. Like
> others, I have
> resorted to a clothes pin . Are there any better ideas out there? Is there
> a source for better choke cables?
No idea if they still sell the same one or not, but I got an aftermarket cable
from Moss Motors a long time ago that has worked perfectly for me. Rather than
crosswise notches like the original, it has a single notch that runs the length
of the shaft, and a spring-loaded ball that rides in the notch. To lock it in
any position, you just turn the knob. Forced out of the notch, the ball
supplies enough force to keep the shaft from moving. To release, you must
rotate the knob back so the ball lines up with the notch, then it will return
under spring tension.
The main disadvantage was that it had a non-removable knob, that didn't match
the original very well. But after some work with crocus cloth, to modify the
profile and give it a bit of 'patina', it blended in reasonably well. A truly
dedicated restorer could probably find a way to machine away the non-removable
knob and install a correct knob with epoxy or something.
On my Stag choke, I was able to disassemble the original locking mechanism, and
fabricate a new, slightly larger piece of brass to bear on the notches. Works
reasonably well, probably better than original.
On the TR3, it's important also to be sure that no one has shortened the choke
return springs, to compensate for stretching the jet gland springs (or for the
non-polished jets being supplied). This is why I always suggest replacing both
springs and polishing the jet as part of a carb rebuild.
Randall
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