Hi Terry,
Had this problem with my 6. The normal area for separating the points with a
flat head screw driver did not do it for me even with a large screw driver.
I had to spread them at a different point. They will open.
Alex
----- Original Message -----
From: "Terry Smith" <terryrs@adelphia.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, October 09, 2006 07:03 PM
Subject: [TR] Tr3A Quasi tad bit teeny weeny fuddled
> Good news: Put on Justin's silicone valve cover gasket...ahem, correctly
this
> time. Hopefully that will stem the flow of oil down the back of the
engine.
> Apologies to all, especially Justin, for wondering aloud to the list
whether
> the gasket was too long.
>
> Also good news: while I had the cover off, I readjusted the valves. Read
> something in the manual I'd missed all those other times: if you want
> performance, adjust inlet and exhuast valves at .013. ...However...there
will
> be corresponding valve clatter. So...I adjusted down to .011, and can't
> believe how much quieter the ride got. It helps, though, that the exhaust
> valve on #4 was way loose, and is now correct.
>
> Bad news: Two questions:
>
> 1) The nuts for adjusting the valves are smaller than 1/2 inch, but are
too
> big for 13 mm and too small for 12 mm. What the heck are these? Do they
come
> in a size I can get a wrench for?
>
> 2) Most perplexing of all, I find that my points with only a couple
thousand
> miles on them, are adjusted as gapped as I can get them, and they're
barely
> .015. I put on a set of new TRF points, thinking the arm that rides on
the
> rotor might have worn down. Exactly the same problem. I don't recall
this
> problem when I first did the car, but maybe. Can the steel rotor be that
> worn? Or might I have been getting the wrong points?
>
> Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
> New Hampshire
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