On Thursday 21 September 2006 05:24 pm, Randall wrote:
> Bob, I've seen too many cases where the switch markings are misleading,
> missing or wrong (although not specifically on a TR4 dipper switch). So, I
> always like to "buzz" out the switch contacts. This also helps ensure the
> switch is good, before I install it and have to wonder what I've done
> wrong.
>
> Using an ohmmeter, or self-powered test lamp (either one is available from
> Horrible Freight for just a few dollars), put the switch into the "low
> beam" position (which I believe is "stalk up") and look for the pair of
> terminals with continuity. Make a mental note of the third terminal. Now
> flip the switch to the "main beam" position, and test again.
>
> The terminal that had continuity both times gets the Blue wire (which comes
> from the main headlight switch). (I think it's likely this is the 'F'
> terminal, but like I say, it's better to test.)
>
> The terminal that had continuity only in the "low beam" position gets the
> Blue/Red wire (which goes to the low beam filaments in the headlights).
>
> The remaining terminal (with continuity only in the "main beam" position)
> gets the blue/white wire, which goes to the indicator in the speedo, and
> the main beam filaments in the headlights.
>
> Randall
>
>Randall,
Thanks for this tip. Got the olm meter out and not only checked out the switch
(which worked fine) but now have all 3 wires connected correctly. You were
right, the solid blue wire went to the center terminal (F).
Bob
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