In my case, I could not disengage the clutch fully even with the pedal on
the floor. The problem got worse as the car heated up.
I tried lots of different things to correct the problem including moving the
slave arm to the top hole but nothing really worked. This article began to
clear up my thinking regarding the source of the problem:
http://www.vtr.org/maintain/clutch-laycock.pdf
If you read that article, I believe that it is describing what is probably
going wrong with your car. The irritation is that it implies that you fix
the problem by taking the car apart and putting back in an OEM pressure
plate. Well I really didn't want to have to do that. I suspect you don't
either.
So I put my thinking cap on...
Take a look at the Moss catalog:
http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=32781
There are two master cylinders listed one is a 0.70 for later cars and also
there is a 0.75 for earlier cars. But look at the clutch pressure plates:
http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=32782
Only one kind for all years....
See something wrong? How can we have two different sized master cylinders
and yet have only one sized kind of every-thing-else for all years? This
isn't logical...
I think answer is that the B&B plate that they offer is likely sized for the
earlier car ('68 - '70). You can deduce this because your clutch is not
disengaging properly; it behaves as if you need to be able to press the
pedal further (but you cant). Mine was this way too.
This is why I am saying that a new M/C with a .75 bore will probably fix it.
It causes more movement of the clutch because it moves more fluid. I think
that it isn't simply a coincidence that now my clutch feels as if it is
adjusted perfectly with the .75 in there. I believe that the all of the
parts finally match.
Anyway, that was my thought process and it took about two years of
frustration to work it out.
-Steve
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