R. Ashford Little II" <70TR6@mindspring.com> writes:
>... after the rebuild the grinding noise is very, very
> bad. Several bleeds and swapping out a master that I had lying around
> provided no relief.
Was it grinding at all before the rebuild? I can't think of anything that
would grind within the hydraulic system. Such a noise would normally come
from metal-to-metal contact of two parts moving at different speeds. That
would include only the clutch disc on the clutch face, or the throwout
bearing to the fork, or the bearing to the clutch fingers, or the bearing
itself. If you broke a pin on the fork, that might account for it, or if
you have bad clutch disc, you'd get lots of noise, too. A bolt in the cross
shaft would be more likely to break than a pin if it's not the right
material, but there's nothing that would cause a noise if that happened,
just no clutch function.
>
> The clutch was recently replaced and we put a bolt in the cross-shaft at
the
> time to do away with the broken taper pin issue. The clutch is a Sachs
with
> a Koyo t/o bearing. Both the master and slave were rebuilt with no
relief.
> There is some slop in the clevis pin and linkage where some of the holes
> aren't brand new, but I'm worried that something else is at play.
My vote's the t/o bearing.
Skip Gurnee
64 TR4, 66 TR4A, 67 TR4A (see EBay motors "California no rust - restored)
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