I just went out and jacked the car up again and gave them a few more
whacks. All seems to be tight now after a short drive. I was just
afraid of over tightening.
Thanks for everyone's help. John Mitchell 76 TR6
P.S. They are mounted on the correct sides.
Jim Bauder wrote:
>John,
>
>If the play that you see/feel is between the front wire wheel hub and the
>ft. disc rotor and/or between the rear wire wheel hub and the brake drum
>and/or hub assembly, you have not tightened the knock-off sufficiently! If
>they are tight before you drive but are loose when you return, perhaps you
>have the wire wheel hubs and knock-offs swapped right to left side of the
>car!! This would cause them to loosen as you drive. The knock-offs should
>have 'right-side', 'left-side' cast onto the outside surface of the
>knock-off.
>
>In either case, this is not a good nor safe situation. Wire wheels will
>definitely loosen enough to come off of the car which obviously is something
>to be avoided. In my experience the knock-offs have to be extremely tight. I
>always used a heavy LEAD mallet to get them tight enough and not damage the
>chrome finish of the knock-off. The original style copper mallet will work
>but can easily damage the knock-offs.
>
>Good luck and HTH,
>
>Jim
>Jim Bauder
>'68 TR250, CD47L
>TR web site: http://www.triumphowners.com/647
>Scottsdale, AZ
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-triumphs@autox.team.net
>[mailto:owner-triumphs@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of John Mitchell
>Sent: Friday, June 16, 2006 7:37 PM
>To: 6 Pack; triumphs@autox.team.net
>Subject: [TR] Play in wire wheels
>
>
> I've noticed that there is some play in my wire wheels when jacked
>off the ground. I can wiggle the tire back and forth, but neither the
>discs on the front nor the drums on the back move with the wheel. The
>bearings are all tight and new hubs on the rears. This happens at all 4
>wheels. Everything is nice and tight when I first put the wheel on and
>tighten the knock-off with the wheels in the air and nothing wobbles. I
>drive it a few miles, then re-check, and I can feel the play again. The
>wheels are Dayton's and the adapters and wheels have less than 250 miles
>on them. I do note some scarring on the taper area of the adapters,
>almost like metal transferred from the wheel to the adapter(maybe some
>of the chrome plate from the wheels), even though everything was coated
>with anti-seize. I even tried a different set of Knock-offs which didn't
>help. Any Ideas. Should I start by replacing the adapters. The car
>drives fine, with no shaking, even at high speed. Any help would be
>appreciated. John Mitchell 76 TR6
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