> the car is a local British mechanic shop and i go over there to
> work on it. We used a static light to set the timing and he
> suggested to set it at 8 degrees.
The optimum setting depends on a lot of things, but I would suggest
following the workshop manual. It says to start with 4 degrees advance, and
then fine-tune with a road test.
That said, I doubt 4 extra degrees of advance is causing any of your current
problems.
> the jets were replace but the needle were not.
Might be worth changing them, if all else fails. They aren't particularly
expensive, and it's very difficult to judge the wear on them (from improper
centering and/or wear in the dome bearing).
> How ever the float bowl shut off arms had to be bent much further
> down to stop the gas seeping in to the carbs after shut down.
That's a scary thought ... are you saying that the arms were bent well below
the normal adjustment ? That would mean the fuel level is lower than normal
in the jets (while running), which could cause lean mixture and overheating.
Better, IMO, to set the float level as specified, and then fix whatever is
allowing the needle valves to leak (which probably means new needle valves,
again they aren't expensive). Just a side comment, I hate "Grose Jets",
they cause more problems than they solve. I've fixed several cars now by
taking out the Grose Jets and replacing them with the old needle valves.
> It does not seem to idle very smoothly either, the tack is being
> rebuilt so i don't know what rpms it is idling at. I will check
> the advance and spark scatter.
What happens when you do the "lift the piston" check for mixture ?
> the car boils over after it is shut down and pours out maybe a
> quart of liquid if i drive it around of 10 to 15 mins.
How full are you filling the radiator ? It may just be overfilled ... which
can cause liquid to be expelled after shutdown. The coolant inside the
engine block gets hotter right after shutdown, since heat is still moving
through the head and liners into the coolant, but the coolant is no longer
being circulated. Hot coolant expands, which normally just fills the air
space in the top of the radiator. But if the radiator was overfilled, the
extra coolant is forced out.
Of course, a leaking head gasket can cause all these symptoms ...
Randall
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