> Some questions:
> 1) There was a lot of rust from the old connecting rods, grudgion pins etc.
> in the block that needs to be cleaned out. The block itself looks pretty
> good, though it has a LOT of sludge, and there is rust dust in oily
> suspention clinging to everything.
>
> Should I clean it out with kerosene and a brush in plastic tub, or should I
> send the block and the crank to be hot tanked at the machine shop?
Assuming the crud is all from storage or from the water jacket, I'd probably
just wire brush and scrub it.
> ISTR reading on the list that there is something that might be damaged in a
> hot tank process, what it it?
Several things. Offhand :
1) Bushing for distributor/oil pump drive
2) Paint on crankcase surfaces
3) Cam bearings (if you aren't replacing them anyway)
4) I think there is an aluminum plug somewhere, but maybe I'm thinking of the
one in the head
- I'm probably forgetting something else, too
> 2) I haven't got a real good look at the camshaft bearings yet. The Haynes
> manual just says that a Triumph dealer or engineering works should replace
> the bearings.
>
> How can I tell if they need replacing?
IMO the safe thing is to replace them. You could try measuring and comparing to
the cam journals to compute clearance, but I don't have the numbers handy.
> Will my local auto machine shop have the tools and knowledge to replace
> these?
Maybe. Be sure to point out to them that the rearmost bearing has to be turned
the right way front/back, and that unlike the other bearings, there are 3 holes
that must line up.
> Would those bearings survive if they went through the hot tank,
Nope.
> or do they need to be removed first?
No sense putting back old bearings, so it really doesn't matter.
> 3) What was the recommended varnishy sealent to put on the felt front and
> rear seals?
Permatex #3 "Aviation Form-A-Gasket" works well.
Randall
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