Joe,
I'm no expert but I'm in an auto electronics class currently at our
tech school, and it sounds like to me you've got "back feed"
problems. We studied a couple of cases where a fuse went out and
because of the design of the circuit, it let power flow to other
components that were not supposed to get power. It would vary even
then depending what switches were closed in the hot circuit.
Check all fuses and look at the TR6 wiring diagram and see what might
possibly be back feeding these circuits.
Doug
At 09:46 AM 12/2/2005, you wrote:
>Gets stranger. The lamp is still on with the single wire to the
>sender unit unplugged. (The gauge does read zero without the car running)
>However I noticed the BRAKE lamp wasn't lit. So, I pulled the
>SINGLE wire to the DOUBLE prong PDWA sensor and the oil light went
>out. I plugged the wire back in and the BRAKE light came up
>bright, the ignition light was bright, but the oil light was
>dim. When I started the car, they all went out. Anyone have a clue
>on this one?!!!!
>
>Thanks,
>
>Joe
>72 TR-6
>
>Randall wrote:
>
>>>The oil light just popped on this afternoon as I was warming her up for
>>>a last warm weather run (freak warm front today). The oil is topped up
>>>and the pressure reads about 50lbs on the gauge. What could be hosed
>>>and how do I check?
>>>
>>
>>First, double check that the gauge reads zero with the engine stopped and the
>>ignition on.
>>
>>If it does, then chances are good that your oil light sender has
>>failed or the
>>wire to it is shorted to ground somewhere.
>>
>>Disconnect the wire from the sender and see if the lamp goes out. (If your
>>sender has 3 wires, disconnect the white/brown one.) If the lamp
>>goes out, then
>>most likely the sender has failed.
>>
>>Randall
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