In a message dated 10/18/2005 9:20:48 AM Central Standard Time,
one_second_zero@yahoo.com writes:
> I'm in the middle of doing a complete brake system renewal on my 76 TR6
> which includes rebuilt calipers, new rear wheel cylinders, new brake hoses,
>and
> a rebuilt brake master cylinder as well as all of the little bits. The only
> thing not being replaced is the metal brake pipes. The instructions that
> came with my rebuilt MC (Apple Hydraulics) say to bench bleed the MC before
> installing in order not to introduce air into the brake lines. My thought
>is
> that since the lines are completely full of air now (they've been drained and
> open for a while) is that it wouldn't make any difference whether or not I
> "bench bleed" the MC. Anyone have any thoughts, experience, wisdom, etc, on
> this? Should I still bench bleed the MC? What is the best approach to
> bleeding a brake system that is completely drained and full of air? -thanks
>
First of all, let me commend you for doing a thorough job. I recommend this
level of renewal on any car that is 30 years old. I did mine in 1996 and it
has been trouble free since.
Secondly, I wouldn't bother. I have dry fitted master cylinders and
successfully bled the system many times. The one time I bench bled a master
cylinder
I had the cap off of the reservoir and when I released the piston it popped
back and a small drop of brake fluid flew out and landed on the hood of the
car.
Fortunately it was just my 79 Mustang.
In fact you may try leaving the bleeders open and filling the reservoir. If
things work right gravity will cause the fluid to flow and fill the lines and
cylinders. Shut the bleeders when you see fluid coming out and then bleed
normally.
Dave Massey
71 TR6
=== This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register
=== http://www.vtr.org
|