> There is a drain plug on the bottom of the transmission. The factory
> installed a plug with a square, protruding head and unless a
> previous owner replaced
> it with another type it is still there. Joe Alexander (on this
> list) sells a
> special wrench for this plug but a Crescent wrench works just
> fine.
With respect to Dave, I have a different opinion of using a Crescent
(adjustable) wrench here. It's no doubt fine when you're removing a plug
that you installed, but I've had many plugs come to me that are too tight
for a Crescent wrench. I would definitely suggest either buying Joe's tool,
or a 7/16" 8-point socket at Sears (or any decent tool store).
> Getting a Crescent wrench on this plug, however, is much more
> difficult since
> it is nestled in some of the contours of the gearbox. This is
> where Joe's
> wrench comes in handy.
Likewise the 8-point socket works well here.
> But you can get a
> pump attachment that fits on the oil jug and refill it by pumping
> the oil in
> directly from the bottle.
Available at your local discount auto parts supplier. Very handy, I
recommend it.
> Others, experts in the rebuilding business, say to use straight
> weight 50W racing oil.
Or 20W50 racing oil, which is what I use.
> Earlier on, on TR2's and 3's (who's transmissions are
> the precursors to
> yours) the factory recommended straight 30W.
To be technical, it was 30 weight, which is different than 30W (where the W
indicates "Winter" and means the viscosity is measured at 0C rather than
100C).
The book also specified 50 weight, for temps over 70F. And 20W for temps
consistently below 10F. Thus 20W50 (which acts like 20W at 0C and 50 weight
at 100C) covers the range perfectly.
Randall
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