> In fact, I had to use it's
> nut and another steel washer to try and draw it up tight against the lower
> fulcrum support.
I'd guess something was wrong at the outer pivot, or perhaps you just had them
cocked. It does take a certain amount of finesse to put the second A-arm into
place over both pivots at once. Seems like maybe it's a little easier without
the vertical link threaded into the trunnion.
> However, the 7/16" threads stripped on one stud while using
> only about 55 foot lbs. (as measured on the torque wrench I was using).
> While I rethreaded the stud (using 7/16" NF20 threads)
If the threads on the stud are gone, how are you putting them back ?
> I had to ask
> myself why this happened at only 55 ft. lbs?
I'd guess it's a combination of low quality steel, 45 year old threads and
possibly a dose of corrosion. If there are threads left on the stud, then what
stripped were the threads in the nut ... any chance your new nuts were defective
?
> I don't even think I've
> completely drawn that arm up tightly yet. I hesitate to try it using those
> same threads. How else can this be accomplished?
You should be able to assemble it by hand or at worst a few love taps from a
brass hammer. Forcing it will likely distort something.
> Is tightness important here?
Not really, in fact I believe the nylon bushings should move easily. That's one
of the checks before putting the spring pan back on, that the lower A-frame
moves quite easily. Even with the upper A-arms attached, you should still be
able to move the suspension through it's range by hand.
> I've read where it's important to put the weight on the front end
> before finally tightening it.
I believe that's only important when using the rubber bushings (as very early
cars did at the lower inner pivots, before they were upgraded to nylon & steel).
Randall
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