What I noticed on my A-type switches was the the rivets holding the
metal tabs onto the switch must have loosened over time; I could
wiggle the tabs around, which certainly didn't seem promising for
conducting electricity reliably.
You may be able to fix them by cleaning up the metal really well,
then using a hammer and small punch lightly on the rivet (to help it
make firm contact). I was able to bring back one switch this way,
but not the other.
HTH,
Dan
At 2:07 PM -0700 1/24/05, Joe Curry wrote:
>If it is the same one used on the Spits, it can be taken apart and
>repaired. I have done a couple of them.
>
>Joe
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-triumphs@autox.team.net
>[mailto:owner-triumphs@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
>jim.wallace@netscape.ca
>Sent: Monday, January 24, 2005 1:23 PM
>To: triumphs@autox.team.net
>Subject: o/d switch repair?
>
>One of the switches on the top of the gear selector cover that allows
>the
>overdrive to function is flaky. I took out a shim and it makes better
>contact, but not a nice consistent low resistance. Sometimes a few ohms,
>sometimes a few hundred ohms, sometimes wandering as I watch.
>Can the switches be taken apart and contacts cleaned? If so, any gotchas
>before I dive in and bust something?
>Thanks,
>Jim
60 3a, 4A o/d
--
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
Dan Buettner - Des Moines, Iowa
1957 TR3 TS15098L 'O', going back together with glacial speed.
Fiberglass is the word of the day.
1977 Spitfire FM64159U 'O', in storage, waiting for its big brother
to free up room in the garage.
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