Lumia, John wrote:
>
> Mark,
>
> There really aren't any adjustments to speak of. One common problem is that
> the linkages wear and collectively introduce play which results in a lower
> pedal. Starting at the clutch pedal, the connecting rod to the clutch master
> cylinder should have a round hole where the pin goes through it, not oval. Do
> the same at the slave cylinder side. Also, make sure your slave cylinder rod
> is in the middle hole on the cross-shaft lever. If there is no appreciable
> wear there, look for leaks in the master and slave cylinder, and rebuild as
> needed. Lastly, the taper pin that goes through the throw-out bearing fork
> and the cross-shaft may have sheared off, which is a common problem. You need
> to remove the transmission to fix this, so look very closely at the easier
> things before going down that road.
I agree that wear at the clevis pins is a real culprit, especially at the
pedal side. I ended up reaming out the hole in the pedal shaft and sleaving
it to obtain a close fit. I've also moved the slave rod to the top hole.
The reality is that even with good hydraulics, the range of movement of the
slave rod isn't that great, and at least on the cars I've driven, engagement
has always been very close to the floor. (This has caused me to develop
the habit of mashing the clutch pedal to the floor on all my cars, even
though, on my audi for example, the clutch disengages very early in the
pedal travel.)
scott s.
.
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