Hi Chris,
Sounds like a pretty radical endeavor for a horn problem, but if you're really
up for it, go for it!
I did my TR4A a couple of years ago, and found a couple of things helped.
1. Get a big schematic, and memorize the colo(u)r codes. The handbook's OK, but
too small. Enlarge it up on a copier.
2. Trying to rout all the wires while looking at colors/schematics is a waste
of time. First lay out the harness on the floor and tag where they go. It
really makes the job go much faster. This will also give you a good idea how
it's physically routed.
3. Install the big bulkhead grommet while the harness is on the floor. Trying
to do this while on the car hurts your back while bending over for 1/2 hour.
The other grommets go on fairly easy, but the big one takes some time.
4. Buy some extra wire and connectors. Unless you're a purest now is the time
to do any mods, such as adding heavier gauge wire to run the stereo, or speaker
wire, extra fuses, etc.. Wrap them with electrical tape to the main loom. Write
down any mods on the schematic, including wire colors. (I used a different
color tape so I knew where I had added wires).
5. Make up a ground harness for the instrument lamps. Nothing special, just 4
female spade connectors in series spread 6 inches apart, and a screw connector
at the end. (I'm assuming you have the wood dash, so the instruments aren't
grounded like in older 4's).
6. Get about 5 feet of tubing for the retainer insulation, and cut 3 feet of it
into 4 inch segments. These slip over the retainers that holds the harness in
place in the engine compartment and under the dash. The other 2 feet will be
used for the rear license plate lights wire protection. I found some 1/2 inch
thin wall black air tubing at Fry's Electronics that worked perfect.
7. Buy a few solder type bullet connectors from Moss 162-200. Also 3 or 4
single and double connectors. These are used to marry the light harnesses into
the main loom. Avoid the solderless connectors wherever possible, and if you
find you have to, solder them anyway.
8. My fuse box was pretty corroded. New ones are relatively cheap for the 4A.
Use dielectric grease on all slip connectors.
Take your time. It took a weekend to do mine.
Good luck!
John
-----Original Message-----
From: homebru@mindspring.com [SMTP:homebru@mindspring.com]
Sent: Wednesday, October 13, 2004 7:39 PM
To: triumphs@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: TR4A Wiring Harness
Welp,
I guess it's time to bite the bullet (connector). I have yet to get my horn
working, so no inspection, so no driving out of the neighborhood. I was told
by a LBC mechanic that the wiring harness in Daphne (67 TR4A) is a cobbled
together mess from a TR6 and another Triumph harness.
My question is:
Do you think I am capable of installing a new one myself? I am fairly
technical (Engineer), and my other hobby is repairing and refurbishing pinball
machines. Is it as simple as labling the old one, and trying to match the new
one? I know how to read a multi-meter. Has anyone done this lately? What
other tools might I need.
I refuse to give into the Dark Side (Lucas).
Thanks for any light (pun intended) you may be able to shed on this subject,
Chris
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