John,
1. Maybe your tubing from radiator neck to overflow bottle is leaking air
through a crack or split in the rubber. The radiator only sucks coolant back in
when car cools down - alot.
2. Using a lower pressure radiator cap doesn't make sense to me.
3. Installing a hotter thermostat doesn't make sense to me.
4. Not sure about your current aftermarket thermostat - if the hole is too
small perhaps high revs is overwhelming it. I know the $36 sleaved stat from
Moss opens up pretty darn big.
5. The only downside I've heard about WaterWetter is it can find leaks better
than regular water or coolant.
6. Might be time to have your radiator restored (rodded out, etc)?
Good luck,
Carl
'63 TR4 since '74
Today I pulled the thermostat (it's a 160 deg), and tested it on the stove.
It
fully opens and closes, but it appears to "shudder" or step as it opens. It
also looks like the bi-metallic piston is off center so I'm off to the parts
store to get a $5.00 cheapy - this time a 185 deg. If the thermostat change
doesn't cure the overheating the cause is either the radiator or a blockage
in
the block/head.
So, a couple of questions:
1. I'm considering using water wetter and Prestone coolant. Does water wetter
really work?
2. Is there a "flush" for the block, or is this the same as the radiator
stuff?
Any suggestions as to which brand?
3. Can I test for block/head blockage? How?
4. The fact that the radiator doesn't suck back water from reservoir means
that
air is getting back into the system (from somewhere). When should the
"sucking"
occur, during cool down or lower revs (meaning less pressure?)?
5. Is there something else I need to look for?
Thanks!
John
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