> On my '60 Tr3, I've got most of the brake line, master cyliner, shoes,
> sprind et al replaced. While replacing the rear wheel cyliners,
> it seems as though
> they "float" after the springs are put in. Is this normal?
They should always 'float'. Since the adjuster is fixed, the cylinder has
to move against the backplate to apply the upper shoe.
> My temp gauge capillary tube is shot. I see the big 3 don't carry
> replacements. Other than finding one on eBay, is anyone aware of
> a source for a
> replacement?
Replacing the tube is beyond the average DIY ... the tube and bulbs in both
the sender and gauge are filled with highly volatile (and explosive) ether.
However, there are several places that will replace it for you, one is
MO-MA
1321 2nd St NW
Albuquerque, NM 87102
(505) 766-6661
Price will seem very high at first, but includes a full "as new" rebuild of
the gauge.
> Has anyone found an electric gauge that serves the
> purpose?
Very early TR4 gauges are electric, and look almost identical to TR3 gauges.
I don't recall for sure offhand, but you'll likely need a voltage stabilizer
to go with it. Smiths did sell an aftermarket electrical gauge that doesn't
need a stabilizer and looks very similar; these show up on eBay from time to
time.
> All due
> repect to the purists, I plan on using this car as a daily driver
On my (now ex) daily driver, I used a 'SunPro' mechanical temp gauge from
the local auto parts outlet. A standard 2" gauge will fit the hole
perfectly and the one I got also screwed into the thermostat housing exactly
as the original did. Doesn't match the other gauges of course, but with
it's chrome surround and white on black markings and pointer, it's not too
bad. Probably give a concours judge the willies, but since it's not likely
a judge will ever look at my car ...
Only modification required was to connect the lamp wire into the other dash
lights.
> and I just
> want to be able to know how the water temp is.
Electrical gauges are notoriously inaccurate and the Smiths ones are really
slow ... I think my 270 degree sweep mechanical is much better.
> After finsihing the brakes yesterday i was able to drive around
> the block.
> One pump and the brakes are fine, so I guess I need the bleed
> them again.
Are they adjusted properly ?
> However my clutch is shot,
How do you know ? TR3 clutches last almost forever, so I'd say chances are
high that there is something else wrong. Have you double checked all the
adjustments ?
If you do change the clutch, and haven't already, I would definitely
recommend reinforcing the infamous taper pin with an additional 1/4" bolt at
right angles. There used to be a good article on this on the Buckeye
Triumph site, but it seems to have been taken down. Anyone know why ?
Randall
59 TR3A TS39781LO (now totaled :(
71 Stag LE1473L daily driver wanna be (waiting for J-type transplant)
63 Sports 6 HB7826LCV rustoration project
57 TR3 TS21731L rusting quietly 2000 miles away
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