I just completed the alternator conversion on the TR4, and I though I'd
share some lessons learned with the list. My goal was installing a Delco
10SI alternator in a way that would appear as original as possible.
The instructions on the VTR site were my core reference, with additional
tidbits from various web sites. The VTR instructions were very helpful, but
the following details were either missing or could use some clarification:
- I found a suitable pulley at Quick Start Automotive Electric Products for
about $20.
- Modifying the mounting boss on the Delco alternator was very
straightforward. Trimming the boss down to a thickness of 1.75" gave
perfect alignment with the water pump and crank pulleys without needing any
shims.
- The wide pulley takes up more of the alternator shaft than the narrow
pulley that came with the alternator. The basic 10SI (7127) alternators are
apparently all alike, but there are different fan designs. The alternator I
bought had a fan that was domed in the center with a thick spacer under it,
leaving very few threads for the thin attaching nut. The wide pulley
covered all of the threads at the end of the shaft, making it impossible to
attach the nut. I swapped the old fan and spacer from a core unit for the
new fan, and solved the problem. Its difficult to describe, so just be sure
to get the pulley first and make sure it will fit on the new alternator
before you buy it.
- I found it impossible to install the recommended 7" bolt through the front
and back "ears" of the generator mounting bracket. The cross-brace is in
the way in the front, and the exhaust manifold interferes in the rear.
Instead, I used a 3/8" x 3" bolt through the alternator and the front
generator mounting hole. BTW, the hole in the front of the generator
mounting bracket is 1/2" diameter, while the mounting hole in the alternator
is 3/8". I didn't want any wobble here, and installed a bushing to take up
the slack and provide a very solid mounting.
- The original fan belt would not fit over the pulley, so I tried longer
belts, up to 40" (NAPA TR28400). The longer belts allowed the alternator to
sit too close to the fender wall for my comfort. Grinding down the edge of
the generator mounting plate and front engine plate where the alternator was
touching them allowed the alternator to swing closer to the block and
provided enough room to use the original fan belt. The alternator seems to
sit just right.
- I used an old control box as a terminal block, following the general
instructions provided in
http://www.vtr.org/maintain/alternator/gm-tr4a1.html. Rather than
installing a fusible link, I'm planning to install a circuit breaker inside
the box to protect the wiring harness against the 60+ amp surge that the
alternator is capable of producing with a dead battery.
It took considerably more than 2-3 hours, but it works fine and you'd have
to look pretty carefully to tell that its not an original installation. Hope
these observations are helpful to others contemplating this modification.
Dean Mericas
1965 TR4
1974 2000 GTV
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