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RE: TR6 gearbox to engine re-assembly

To: "'Randall'" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Subject: RE: TR6 gearbox to engine re-assembly
Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2004 20:33:15 -0400
Cc: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Folks,
I've pulled apart and re-installed a fair number of TR6 engines and
transmissions, and while I don't think it was the first divorce for any
of them... none had any dowels, just bolts. Seems if one uses the 2
proper shouldered 3/8" bolts (not the 5/16" bolts) they should work as
alignment dowels. The Rimmer Bros. site even lists the two 3/8" bolts,
Part #132872 as "Bolt (dowel)". Yes, I know bolts are not turned to the
same tolerance as dowels, but it's hard to believe there would be so
much difference in tolerances that it would create any serious alignment
problems. I have experienced situations where the 5/16" bolts were
installed & tightened before installing the 3/8" bolts and the smaller
bolts had to be loosened to allow the 3/8" bolts to be fully inserted,
confirming their use as alignment hardware.
I replaced my first TR6 clutch in 1973 and have never experienced any
throwout bearing drag problems over the years, so maybe that makes me
doubt the need for dowels or the Gunst bearing if all the other parts
are properly aligned and installed.

Jim Davis
Fortson, GA
CF38690UO
 

> The two 3/8" bolts (actually dowels) as you stated are used for 
> alignment of the bell housing. I have to be honest, before I switched 
> to the Gunst bearing I never used them as alignment tools , just lined

> up the the trany output shaft & reinstalled the bolts. I don't know 
> how all those bolts would allow any misalignment.

The alignment pins are a much tighter fit in their holes than the bolts
are.

Doesn't take much misalignment to make the pilot bearing drag, nor much
drag to wear out synchros faster and make it harder to shift.  The pins
really are important.

Randall

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