Randall,
I had heard that the specs for turning the crank for the rubber lip seal
were suspect, but I hadn't heard that the nylon mandrel that Moss sells
was/is suspect! Maybe that is why my main seal leaks! Although I didn't
replace the two halves as I (and others!) have recommended!
Thanks for the info though,
Jim
-----Original Message-----
From owner-triumphs at autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-triumphs@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Randall
Sent: Thursday, September 02, 2004 4:12 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: TR2/3 installation of rear seal
> Asking about experiences installing original rear seal on TR wet sleeve
> engines. Did most make up a mandrel according to manual specs and
> use this
> to center seal halves?
> Any other techniques to center seal? Seems centering using mandrel, then
> removing and installing crank, then re-installing seals leaves
> lots of room
> for loosing original setting.
Not really. You remove and reinstall the rear main cap with the seal half
firmly attached, which is a fairly major piece of kit.
> At this point in engine re-build, so wondering if going off and
> making up a
> mandrel and following the book is the way to proceed.
> Thanks for any insights.
The dimensions shown in the book are supposedly wrong and result in too much
seal clearance. According to a long-ago post from Hardy Prentice (I think),
the 2.822" shown in the book should actually be 2.818". And Brad Eells
replied that the nylon tool sold by Moss was 2.823", even bigger than the
too-big dimension shown in the book.
Randall
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