Cc: rgperry@earthlink.net; sawblade@ptd.net; 6pack@autox.team.net;
tr6_1969@hotmail.com; lang@isis.mit.edu; mjb@autox.team.net;
jamdav@woodward.com; vance.navarrette@intel.com; 'Todd Bermudez'; Oehrle
Gary (IFNA COM)
Subject: Chapter 2 on TR6 Transmission--Reverse gear grinder
To all
Over the weekend I did some experimentation which has lead me
to now start pulling the transmission and have a look at the
fork, pins and cross bolt etc. I have been reluctant to accept
this was my problem since four or five years ago I had put in a
new clutch, bearing and fork with additional cross bolt and have
probably less the 5,000 miles on.
Basically, In Nelson Riedel article " TR250/TR6 Clutch Hydraulics
Overhaul" article he speaks of buying a 76 TR6 with a extend salve and
rod setup to buy pass a broken fork. I incrementally inserted some
washer (up to 0.25"
worth) between the slave and its mounting bracket with the slave rod in
the top hole as well. When it would still not dis-engage, I put the car
in gear (forward
and reverse) and attempted to free the clutch. This was the second time
of
doing this and on the fourth attempt the clutch dis-engaged and worked
fine.
Thinking my problem was solved, I took out the washers and moved the rod
to the center hole. No such luck. Just like before (reverse grinding
and a brick wall in trying to get in 1st or 2nd gear. So back in went
the
0.25" of washer and the top hole and it was working again with just a
little grinding into reverse.
So while I dive into the belly of the beast, I will read the additional
articles on www.buckeyetriumphs.org/ to begin the process of which
clutch, which bearing, etc. and in the process rebuild the MC and
convert the fluid to silicon as the brakes are already using silicon
fluid and
read about end float on the transmission.
Much thanks for the feedback and suggestions to this point, I will
keep you
posted.
Gary Oehrle
ps. at least the TR3 is running Great!!!
Gary Oehrle
Office Phone 408-501-6896
Cell Phone 408-718-1175
-----Original Message-----
From: Sally or Dick Taylor [mailto:tr6taylor@webtv.net]
Sent: Friday, August 06, 2004 11:45 PM
To: Oehrle Gary (IFNA COM)
Cc: rgperry@earthlink.net; sawblade@ptd.net; 6pack@autox.team.net;
tr6_1969@hotmail.com; lang@isis.mit.edu; mjb@autox.team.net;
jamdav@woodward.com; vance.navarrette@intel.com
Subject: Re: Update on TR6 Transmission--Reverse gear grinder
Gary----Your MC is probably OK if you are able to get 5.5 inches of
movement from the SC pushrod. That is more than enough to disengage the
clutch, if the parts inside the bellhousing are not broken or bent. I
trust that this 5.5 motion was measured with the clevis pin connected to
the pushrod and clutch operating arm. (This would rule out air in the
system, giving a spongy operation)
Do not bother to add a spacer to the SC housing bracket. This is a
hydraulic system, and will do nothing to solve the problem.
Most likely you get to pull the tranny and inspect the parts that push
the throwout bearing forward. A broken fork pin is the usual culprit. I
would take the time to add a "second pin" to the cross shaft and fork.
Details in the buckeyetriumphs.org web site.
Dick Taylor
Check out the new British Cars Forum:
http://www.team.net/the-local/tiki-view_forum.php?forumId=8
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