First I want to thank everyone who sent me some advice to correct my
problem as well as explain how the whole system works. Next I have to
apologize for taking so long to respond back but my sister passed away
and things have been a little messed up.
I was not aware that the vacuum system retarded the timing or was I
aware that the timing retarded when the coolant reached 200 degrees.
When I was working on the car it was hot outside and the coolant was hot
probable over 200 degrees at the time. I reset the timing with the
engine at normal operating temperature and the timing did change when I
removed the hose from the distributor. I set the timing to 12 degrees
BTDC with the hose off. When I plugged the hose back in the timing went
to 4 degrees BTDC, Isn't it supposed to go to go to 4 degrees ATDC?
Also, when I unplugged the hose from the carburetor it looked as if
there was gas on the fitting. I am sure this is not correct. Any
suggestions on what is happening here?
For the good news I took the car in for the emission testing and passed
so I am good for two more years.
Thanks again to everyone for their help,
Ronald Olds
-----Original Message-----
From owner-6pack at autox.team.net [mailto:owner-6pack@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Ronald Olds
Sent: Sunday, July 11, 2004 8:36
To: 6pack@autox.team.net; Triumphs
Subject: Rough Running TR6
My 72 TR6 is running a little rough and has a hesitation when
accelerating from idle. I was doing my normal tune up for my emission
testing and things seem to be going from not too bad to worse. I believe
the vacuum advance is not working properly. When I remove the vacuum
line from the distributor there isn't much change in the timing.
I removed the line before adjusting the timing and think I remember a
big change in the timing. I adjusted the timing to 4 degrees ATDC as I
always do. When I plugged in the line the timing didn't seem to change
much. I don't know if the hesitation is with the vacuum advance or some
other type of problem.
The distributor cap, rotor and points (checked gap) look ok. The lugs
inside the distributor cap look as if they are aluminum. Shouldn't these
be copper? If so does anyone know has this type.
I appreciate any suggestions anyone out there might have.
Thanks,
Ron Olds
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