My experience, of which I have sent the saga before, leads me to recommend
examining all possibilities of shimmy. Leave out nothing, and do not
replace parts as a guess. My guessing cost a ton, and only got me well
balanced Dunlop tires, poly and nylon bushings, Pansports, and the same
shimmy. Wheels can be bent to wobble side-to-side, and also axially. Check
the hub also, these cars have hit curbs and who knows what else in their
lives. And another hint, too loose a setting on front wheel bearings can
cause an excessive push back of the brake pads, leading to a moment of worry
when the 'ol Buick in front of you is stopped.
Now for my questions: -In the Haynes book, the section on chassis shows a
diagram of various points transferred to a level plane. I assume (yike!)
that D-D is the outer corner of the swingarm mounting, and C-C is where the
inner and outer frame rails meet, but what are the others? The manual
advises verifying A and G are equidistant from the reference plane. How far
up should they be? Couldn't it be that they are too far bent up, somewhat
in a modified U? I am concerned the frame could be sagging, and too low in
the middle. The manual refers to jacking points, where are they? Have I
overlooked that too?
-In the recommendations I have always read, running in a new cam requires 20
minutes or so. How do the new car manufacturers do it? Every assembly
plant I have been to they start the vehicle and drive off the line. Have
they run the engines in earlier? -What about cylinder bore finishing, I
have heard the term microfinishing, and assume a very smooth surface. With
the pollution controls, oil use is not tolerated, so how do they get enough
lube without crosshatching?
Alright, I'll stop.
Dennis
'73 TR6
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