> I think I am going to alter my restoration plans a bit and add the
> engine and gearbox back to the chassis BEFORE I put the body back on.
> This seems like it would be easier to do.
I've not done it myself, but since that's the way the factory did it, I
suspect you're quite right about it being easier. Also less likely to bung
up your new paint job while dangling a heavy engine/transmission over it.
> however, the engine seemed to be running fine, albeit
> roughly, before I started the restoration.
My experience has been that TRactor motors will still run fine, even in
fairly advanced states of wear. So I would consider things like : did it
use any oil, how many miles it has on it, what oil pressure did it carry at
hot idle, and what the compression readings were; to be more important in
making this decision. Much of the work of doing a rebuild is getting it in
& out of the car, so I would be inclined to go ahead and tear it down.
If you do tear it down, IMO gaskets, seals, timing chain tensioner, rings
and rod/main bearings are a must, and odds are good that the camshaft, it's
bearings & lifters need attention. Everything else can be inspected and a
decision made on a part-by-part basis as to what needs to be replaced or
machined. If you plan to drive the car, you might consider having it
balanced too. Seems the factory was pretty casual about balance, and
replacement parts over the years have made the situation worse for most
engines.
> Does anyone know a good supplier of parts to
> convert the engine from leaded to unleaded without having the machine
> the engine in any way?
There's no such thing. The main element of the conversion is replacing the
exhaust valve seats, which means the head must be machined to accept the new
seats.
Randall
|