Finally, my TR2 is ready to go, again, (for about the 20th time it seems),
but I cannot get it to fire at all. A local shop helped me get it going after
installation of a new cam that I trashed on completion of a second reassembly
of the engine last summer. It would not fire with new dual points, new plugs,
new condenser, new plug and coil wires, three different new coils, etc. The
shop detected that the ignition system was working but voltage to the plugs was
too low. New and additional grounding straps from engine to body and frame
didn't help. Finally a new Mallory distributor cap got some results (the old
one checked out fine). The car did at least run. It was quite rough due to
needed carb adjustments. Several short dirves with different carb adjustments
were bringing it around when a rocker arm stud bolt broke in the head. The
work was "shelved" when I went in for open heart surgery.
Now that I am all better and with the broken stud bolt memded with a
heli-coil, I want to get the car going again, but I am back to square one. It
won't fire a lick! It won't even backfire. My induction timing light will
pick up voltage through the plug wires some on the time. The timing seems dead
on (or perhaps 3 to 5 degrees advanced - checked on both #1 and #4 cylinders).
I am getting fuel, plugs are wet after lots of cranking. Voltage is very near
12 volts on the positive side of the coil. A probe light flashes from the
ground side of the coil when the engine is cranked. I have tried with both
sets of points connected, with the top points only, with the bottom points
only. I have tried with the condenser removed. I have clamped a jumper cable
to the metal body of the distributor and to the negative braid from the battery
to assure a good ground, but only rarely do I see a blue arc through a plug gap
on a test cranking with a plug removed and grounded to a fender.
The valve timing is correct. There is good compression (180 - 200 lbs.
each cylinder). The timing is correct. It ran last summer under this setup.
Surely an occasional arc through the plug gap would at least cause a cylinder
to fire or at least back fire or sputter. I GET NOTHING!
This is really frustrating, but I won't give up!! TS7690 WILL RUN AND
DRIVE AGAIN!! Any suggestions for additional things to try would be
appreciated.
Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
Rob Blubaugh,Rensselaer, Indiana, USA
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