Bill:
In addition to Randall's comments, I basically destroyed the rubber to get
it off, cutting it with a saw in pieces. I took the new bushing to a local
spring shop (in Harrisburg, PA there is a Stanley Spring outfit that does
everything from commercial to family cars) and let them do the hard work.
Cost was about $20. I also dismantled my springs, painted them and then
greased them upon reassembly. Be sure to note that the passenger side (right
side) has an extra leaf to it. Also, I found that using my bench vice was
the best way to reclamp the leafs.
Scott Suhring
Mechanicsburg, PA
'70 TR6
'59 TR3
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-triumphs@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-triumphs@autox.team.net]On
Behalf Of MotoPsyche@aol.com
Sent: Monday, January 26, 2004 11:27 AM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: (Rear) Spring Has Sprung
Spring has arrived at my garage. Two of them, in fact. I just dropped the
rear leaf springs to replace the bushings in my TR3A, and questions arise:
1. What's a neat way to force the single bushing out of the eye on the
front of each spring? Can you push/hammer/press on the inner metal sleeve
of the
silent bloc bushing, or must all the force be placed on the outer metal
sleeve? Will this require 20 tons of presure if rusted? Is heat an option?
2. What are the pros and cons of dismantling the leaf springs to clean
and
grease them? Bad idea? Great way to avoid or relieve squeaks? Why bother?
3. What are the tell-tale signs indicating replacement of the link
connecting the shock lever to the spring plate? The upper "ball joint" on
mine seems
kind of loose.
4. What kind of "feel" should the lever shocks provide to determine if
they are serviceable? Should it require considerable effort to move them up
and
down, or just moderate effort? What kind of oil provides the best balance
of
shock action?
Thanks for any tips.
Bill Stagg
1960 TR3A, TS64947L
|