In a message dated 1/16/04 7:10:42 PM Eastern Standard Time,
terryrs@adelphia.net writes:
<< 1) First, Justin Wagner has a Silicone gasket product for each the valve
cover and sump.
I haven't used this specific product but, from mid 80's up many engines use a
molded silicone gasket. They work great and are reusable many times. The
real trick is that the gasket / joint _must_ have some way of limiting
compression. If a silicone sheet is used in place of a cork gasket the
silicone will
crush/ split before the bolts are tight.
Some use steel spacers in the gasket bolt holes while some have bumps stamped
in the pan to limit crush.
For a no leak solution with cork gaskets read 3.
2) Moss offers "regular" gasket sets, and "Payen" sets. Price difference is
negligible. Does anyone have a comment on the quality difference?
Payen makes a aftermarket gasket for Formula Ford 1600 ( Kent engine, Brit
specific e mail content :) , the racers seem happy. In truth we don't stress
these engines enough to blow the head gasket.
3) People have talked a lot about sealants for paper/cork gaskets. Silicone
seems to be the choice. >>
Now the trick, install the cork gasket _dry_, use a bit of silicone in the
corners where two gaskets meet. ( lots of silicone will cause the gasket to: A
skid and split. B stick the two parts together making things difficult to
remove later. )
Install the oil pan and lightly tighten the bolts in a large pattern. The
trick is to evenly tighten things up allowing time for the gasket to crush.
Now run a bead of silicone around the outside of the pan. The cork gasket
does the major sealing and the silicone bead takes care of the nuisance leaks.
It's also a good idea to snug the bolts up after the engine has run XXX
miles. Be sure not to overtighten, screwdriver torque is plenty.
I've done the above to my Formula Ford oil pan and have 0 leaks from the pan.
( I did not do the retighten though )
Harold
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