In response to Joe Maher's questions, I just completely rebuilt the front and
rear suspension on my '59 TR3A
this summer. (I'm TS58667, only about 1300 cars later than yours.) I'm
not an expert, but I know you have some choices.
Rear Shocks: Your rear shocks may not need replacing. There are some
articles written on how to rebuild them, but the best thing is just to buy
some Harley Davidson fork oil, empty your old oil and replace with the
Harley
stuff, then work the shocks back and forth by hand. If movement is
consistent, you're golden. Reinstall. If you have a problem, I've have
great performance experience with Apple Hydraulics, who did some heroics on
a pair of front calipers I dinked up beyond human capacity. ( I broke off
not one, but two, easy-outs in the bleeder screw trying to get it out.
...Why heck do they call them "easy" outs anyway?)
Front Shocks: You could replace them while you're in there, but your call
on replacement type. I went stock because, like you, I tend not to want to
fuss with things either. There are other basic improvements that may make
more
of a difference, like a front swaybar.
I didn't buy the magic kit (ISR that they offered stuff in it I didn't
need/want). My research led me to the red urethane bushings for the upper
a-arms. My
best advice on this is to look at the technical drawings in the Moss and
Roadster Factory catalogs, and make an individual decision on each piece.
Again, I didn't use a TR4 trunnion and upper wishbones. Frankly, I'm not good
enough to know the difference in handling that they would cause, relative to
the pita to modify all that.
Research said leave the front springs. Consensus was that new front springs
were of inconsistent stiffness, if I recall correctly, and that old springs
didn't typically deteriorate to the point of needing replacement. Wire brush
the old ones and give them a dose of POR15 or preservative paint of your
choice.
Yes, you can do this. Be sure to do the silent block assembly, ball joints,
and do a careful inspection of the upper fulcrum pins for pitting also. And be
advised that your lower wishbones may be thrashed, with holes so oval
they won't take a bushing. If so, these are no longer available. There are
places you can get servicable used ones, though. I got mine from a place in
Bradford, Vermont. (Mike: (802) 439-5815.) Check for prices.
Lastly, there was/is a debate about the rear spring bushes. Some say you get
a better ride from the rubber, because it is more forgiving to jolts than the
poly. Others say the poly is firmer and longer lasting. I went poly, but to
be honest, the rubbers I took out, and these were 43 years old, looked really
pretty good.
...And invest $10 in a tube of silicone grease. It'll be easier on your
plastic parts when you lubricate.
Oh, and be advised there is a steel bush that goes over the fulcrum pins for
the lower A-Arms. Mine were practically welded to the pin. Used propane
heat, a dousing of cold water, repeat, repeat, repeat, repeat, then heat like
crazy and used a pipe wrench with a pipe extension for leverage, and I was
able to twist the bushing off, barely. Others like Randall on this list can
better attest whether it's better just to leave the bushing in place and put a
new nylon bush over with liberal smearing of silicone grease.
I also went into the steering box and replaced the bushing and adjusted the
peg pressure, replacing all the old oil that was in there with modern gear
oil. IMO, I don't think I really had to, but I wouldn't have known that
unless I did. "That's the catch, Yossarian. Catch-22. If you think you're
crazy and want out, you're not crazy."
Above all, have fun. That's what it's all about.
Terry Smith
'59 TR3A TS 58667
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